Sorry this is a day late.  Someone took out the main internet control box and the whole of Fort Augustus was without access.

Today was a day of reminders.  When we woke up it had been snowing in the night.  Reminder 1: This is northern Scotland in April so don’t take the weather for granted.

 

I mentioned how much I had been looking forward to getting off the ugly, dangerous roads and onto some footpaths.  The Great Glen Way runs all the way down the side of Loch Ness and I used it for the 17 miles today from Drumnadrochit (Lewiston) to Fort Augustus, and it was beautiful and traffic free but………….  Reminder 2:  Unlike roads footpaths tend to be wiggly, up and down (as high as 350m), and rough under your feet.  I walked harder today than any day so far but only managed 17 miles.  Average pace was way down compared to road walking.

Logistics for meeting up at lunch and end of day worked well again.  Hazel found some interesting things along the road including a magic well and a clog shop.

Fort Augustus is the very bottom of Loch Ness and boats wishing to proceed down to Fort William have to navigate the Caledonian Canal to connect with the series of Lochs that make up the Great Glen.

More of the same tomorrow.

Another great weather day for walking.  The plan was 15 miles but it was such a lovely afternoon I did an extra 3; so 18 for the day, from Beauly to the far side of Drumnadrochit (what a great name).  The last hour was down the Great Glen Way which will be my walking route for the next few days.  So nice to get away from traffic for a while.  Plenty of hills today so I really needed the rest at lunchtime.

 

 

Being alongside Loch Ness there is plenty of opportunity to play tourist.

Stage 1 (the A9) is done.  Now it’s down the Great Glen to Fort William where Ben Nevis awaits.  There is a lot of snow on the mountains so I hope the weather is kind and my guide is happy to make the ascent.  I’ll know on Wednesday.

Today started with a moral dilemma.  When Hazel picked me up at the end of yesterday’s walk we drove half a mile to the guesthouse.  That half mile was down today’s route.  What to do?  Go back to yesterday’s end or just set out from the guest house.  Would anyone know?  Would anyone care?  That’s when the face of the Queen on her 90^th birthday popped into my mind.  Ok, we go back and start from where we left off.

Having claimed the moral high ground we followed it with a pretty good day.  Over 20 miles done from Alness to the far side of Beauly, most of it away from the A9.  Weather was mixed.  The sunshine was lovely but the rain was heavy and mixed with hail.  My feet did better due to a change in strategy.  Off with the walking shoes and on with the trainers with thinner socks.  My right little toe and I aren’t exactly friends but we are back on speaking terms.

Not much of interest along the way other than a monument to an old soldier.  I’ve tried to blow up the text so hopefully you can share the amazement of what this guy achieved.

Looking forward to tomorrow as the plan is for a shorter walk and ending close to Loch Ness, where I should be walking footpaths rather roads.  Hoorah 🙂

 

Funny sort of day today.  Objective achieved; 18 miles from Dornoch to Alness, but not much else to report.  Another sunny day although a little cooler.  Little toe on right foot is in revolt.  If it doesn’t behave I’ll have to consider some Ranulf Fiennes type home surgery.

 

 

 

I changed today’s route last night.  Hazel pointed out that going a different way (via Taine) was only a tiny bit further and far less hilly.  She was right, so not only is she queen of logistics bit also star navigator (although she did get lost this afternoon).

 

 

 

Highlights were spotting an interesting sign while crossing the Dornoch Forth Bridge, and passing 100 miles walked from the start.

 
What a great day.  Just under 20 miles covered from Brora to the far side of Dornoch, so still ahead of the plan (just).  Weather was about perfect for walking; not too warm and a gentle breeze with plenty of sunshine.  Lovely.

 

 

Apart from the walking and the weather there were several noteworthy moments.

• Hazel found us another nice place to stay in Dornoch (Del Mar), and managed to get the laundry done
• I saw a deer
• Hazel saw a seal
• I managed to get off the A9 for a few hours
• My feet are just as sore as yesterday but I think I’m getting more used to it 🙂

But the high spot of the day was a lesson in humility.  While flogging up a hill a voice from behind scared the life out of me.  A chap in running gear slowed down to walk and talk.  We exchanged pleasantries.  He asked me what I was doing.  Chest puffed out I proudly told him of my epic journey and the 3 peaks.  “Wow”, he said.  “That’s amazing”.

Of course I returned the question with something banal like “What about you?  Are you out for a jog?”  The answer was a true OMG moment………………

“I’m running round the coast of Britain.  4,000 miles down and only 1,000 to go”.

That man is Wayne Russell.  Check out his web site:  https://waynerussell.org/

He has a tracker just like mine but his progress map is truly awesome.

Respect Wayne.  Respect.

What a difference a day makes.  After a pleasant overnight with the delightful Mary at Tormore Farm, Dunbeath, Tuesday arrived with the same blue sky and pleasant temperature for walking………and NO WIND!!!  Yippee.  Just over 20 miles done from Berriedale to Brora.

 

Not much to report from the day’s walk.  All on the A9.  Some lovely scenery.  Lots of care and attention to the lorries that fly past but most of them are real gentleman (and ladies) of the road and give me some space when they can.

 

 

Hazel found a lovely spot for lunch in Helmsdale and it was heaven to slip the boots off for half an hour and enjoy the surroundings.  My feet suffered a bit today.  I think it’s a combination of having to go up and down some major hills (which there aren’t many of in Berkshire) plus this is the longest consecutive days walking I have done.

I should also mention the spontaneous generosity of people who have seen what we are doing and have made a donation; most notably the young shop assistant in the Co-Op in Brora who rushed out to the bank in order to give Hazel £10.  What a star.

Currently sitting in our lovely room at Bay View House, Brora watching Bake Off Crème-de-la-Crème.  Not the kind of food I need to be eating but I can dream.  The local golf course has also got me pining for a round.

 

What a day.  Blue sky for the most part and not cold, but the wind!!!  A steady 30-40mph from the west with gusts above 50mph.  Sadly, as I was walking south-west for most of the day I had the wind in my face.  Between fighting the wind and avoiding lorries on the A9 progress was slow today, and really hard work.  Just over 18 miles clocked up before calling it a day.

 

I met Hazel for a lunch stop at the Dunbeath Tea Room.  We met a couple of chaps who are cycling JOGLE.  They were finding it really hard going too.

 

 

 

High spots today included many lambs gambolling (cute), some hairy cows, a visit for Hazel to a croft museum, and a spectacular rainbow.  I’m afraid my photo doesn’t do it justice.

Weather tomorrow looks better so here’s hoping.

 

 

Dreary weather today.  Heavy cloud and a brisk breeze from the south-west with an occasional shower.  A dreary road too.  Very long, straight sections over open moorland.

 

 

There were a few more interesting things towards the end of the day.  Several miles of giant wind turbines, and a Scottish Heritage site.

Hazel was her usual brilliant self; meeting me for lunch in Watten and finding the next night’s accommodation.  She didn’t even give me a hard time when I produced the keys to last night’s room from my pocket.  Oops.

Still, 19 additional miles under the belt.  Feet are a bit sore but otherwise legs feel ok.  Another nice place to stay; Loch Watten House.

An early night required as tomorrow could be interesting.  50mph winds are forecast for most of the day, and I’ll be on the A9 cliff-top road.  If it’s dangerous I shan’t be walking.  Stay tuned.

Woke up to more snow but not too bad.  We hit the road about 9 and arrived in John O’Groats before 12.  We were a bit early for the guesthouse so went for an explore and a coffee.  Hazel took a couple of touristy photos because you have to.

 

While John O’Groats makes much of the start / end of the walk, convention has it that the walk really begins or ends at the Duncansby Lighthouse, which is the most north-easterly point on the mainland.  Given a cold wind but otherwise nice day I decided to try and get in a few miles.  By 4pm I had covered 10 miles (5 more than intended) so we called it a day.

Another marvellous welcome from Mary and Mark at the John O’Groats Guest House.  A quick bar snack at the local hotel and now time for bed.

This may be the only time I can say this but as of right now, I’m ahead of the plan 🙂

Well, we are on our way.  Left home about 8:15 after a photo shoot with The Wokingham Paper and a live telephone interview with Andrew Peach for his breakfast show on Radio Berkshire.  All good (I think).  Good progress despite heavy rain.  Stopped at 11:45 for a coffee, sandwich and a fuel up at Charnock Richard Services near Preston.

None stop then all the way to Aviemore where we arrived at bang on 6pm.  Exciting to see the new Forth Road Bridge being built.

More rain and roadworks slowed us down a bit round Glasgow but no major surprises until we saw the snow on the hills…………………and then it started to snow!!!

 

Pat at Eriskay Guest House gave us a lovely welcome.  All very cosy.  We are in the main house but they have Glamping Pods in the garden.  Treated ourselves to a nice meal at The Cairngorm Hotel.

A long day but so far so good.  Onwards to John O’Groats in the morning (after the full Scottish of course).